A very scary second half of my long days walk
The second part of my days walk would see me leaving Rifugio Bonatti after a small break and head along the valley, still mostly on a level path with not much ascent or descent and still with magnificent views across the valley. For me though it was bad timing as the path was narrow and streams of organised groups were heading towards me and a mule carrying their gear. Most of the walkers would thank me but some of the grumpy ones were not so grateful and I just wanted to push them down the hill, manners would be nice or at least a smile.
Eventually the amount of walkers started getting less and less and some more pretty pasture land was crossed before the path would zigzag down to Chalet Val Ferret which had a rather inviting look about it so I stopped for a rest and a drink before moving on as I knew the difficult walking was ahead of me. A short walk along a track would soon see me leave it and start the walk up to Rifugio Elena which has a fantastic background.
The path was steep in places but by now my eyes were fixed on the far greater climb up to Grand Col Ferret that I could see to the right of me, I wasn't looking forward to it but I was looking forward to reaching the top and entering Switzerland. I reached Rifugio Elena but didn't stop long as I'd just stopped at the Cafe shortly before at Chalet Val Ferret, I just wanted to get this hill over with and get into Switzerland.
The path zigzagged uphill and after a while I felt a few spots of rain, the first in five days but not enough to see me putting on waterproofs. I looked back down the valley and dark clouds were heading my way, it was a matter of "how soon?" Then, I heard the sound I was dreading, a rumble of thunder down the valley had me increase my pace uphill and hope the storm wouldn't come my way, I was too near the top of the Col to turn back and go all the way back down to Rifugio Elena by now.
Soon the rain started getting heavier and the waterproofs quickly went on. I was not far from the top but the thunder was getting nearer and louder. At this point the rain got really heavy and I really started to get worried about being exposed in a storm but so far I'd seen no lightning. By now I was almost jogging as I just wanted to get to the top and get the hell out of there and down the other side of the Col.
There was a flash soon followed by an incredible loud rumble of thunder, and then more flashes. The path started to level out slightly and I could see the cairn marking the border. I also saw the lightning striking the ground near where the path was heading and this was when I started to get scared. I soon reached the top, took a quick photo and wasted no time in getting away from there, the thunder still booming in my ear.
The rain had made the descent very slippy and I was walking far too fast in the circumstances and I soon slipped onto my back but luckily the backpack softened the fall and got most of the wet mud. By now the thunder was getting further away and I started to relax a little as I headed away from the Col and started the long downhill journey to La Fouly. It was a nice path, not too steep downhill and eventually it started to zigzag downwards towards the track at the bottom of the valley.
My feet were starting to get sore now after all the mileage and the downhill track which meant my feet thumping down on it, all I wanted was some level ground. The path eventually reached the Refuge at Alpage La Peulaz and I got more water before more steep zigzags eventually took me down to the valley floor and the long flat trail to Le Clou. Just before Ferret, the trail cut off into some woods which at least gave my feet a rest from the track. La Fouly was not far away but like every long walk, the last couple of miles seem the longest of the day so I was glad when I rejoined the road and entered the village. Even happier that my accommodation for the night was right at the start if the village.
As I put my feet up, I thought about the days walk and the storm and hope I don't have to go through that again. It wasn't nice and I was scared, not the best way to end what was until then a lovely days walk. Only a few hours earlier I had clear blue skies all around as I looked over to a cloud free Mont Blanc, how quickly the weather can change in the Alps. If I had the extra day I knew that I'd have been safely in my Rifugio when the storm started, not way up on the hillside. At least I knew that my next few days would be far shorter in time and distance starting with the walk from La Fouly to Champex, a day that the guide books all say is easy.
The Maya Joie Hotel/Refuge in La Fouly
The Maya Joie can be found just as you enter La Fouly and a short walk from the centre of the village. It is a Refuge with Dorms but it also has some rooms, including single and twin rooms. I chose to stay in one of the rooms, it had twin beds and shared a bathroom and showers with three other rooms. Breakfast was included in the price and there's also a little shop in the village. It was a nice quiet room and I enjoyed my relaxing night here after a very long day.
