Where can I stay?
I found it quite hard to get accommodation in some areas along the The Southern Upland Way, some of the accommodation listed in guidebooks and websites I found no longer existed meaning having to walk further some days or arranging transport making the SUW a hard trail to plan than most others. The following is a guide of some of the places I stayed at, passed through, not far off route or noticed when I did my SUW walk in July 2018 which might help you although by the time you walk it, there's no guarantee these places will still exist.
Portpatrick
A lovely place to spend the night before starting the SUW in the morning, there are many Hotels and pubs in the village with accommodation right beside the harbour where the SUW begins.
Stranraer
There are many Hotels and guest houses in Stranraer if you choose to stay here before you start your walk or at the end of your first day as it's not far off the trail.
Castle Kennedy
There is no accommodation here but if you finish the first day here you can get a bus to Stranraer and then back again in the morning.
New Luce
Alas, the Kenmuir Arms pub in the village is no longer open so I found my only choice was to stay at Nadav's Shed which is a bit more glamorous than the name suggests. Basically it's a summer house in someone's garden with two rooms, one had a sofa bed which folds down to be a double bed and the other room has two single beds in it. Inside there's also a microwave, kettle, tea, coffee, water and electricity and the owners will bring you fresh milk on your arrival. The portable toilet is in a different building outside. The best thing is that it was cheap to stay here.
Between Bargrennan and Sanquhar
This section is long but can be done in two days if you stay the night at Dalry. However there are companies that will pick you up and drop you off at sections on the trail, allowing you to split the Bargrennan to Dalry and Dalry to Sanquhar sections into three manageable days walking.
Bargrennan
Just off the route is House O'Hill which is a restaurant and pub with three rooms also. I stayed here and enjoyed one of the largest breakfasts I've had on a trail, they also offer packed lunches for the next day.
St. John's Town of Dalry
Dalry, as the locals call it, has a couple of pubs which have rooms (The Clachan and Lochinvar) and also a couple of Bed and Breakfasts.
Sanquhar
Sanquhar will feel like a huge city after so many days in remote areas with such a choice of shops and takeaways but the only pub/hotels I found were the Nithsdale and Glendyne on the Main Street.
Wanlockhead
At the Wanlockhead Inn they have Glamping Cabins, however you will need to bring your own sleeping bag. For a few pounds extra I would advise you just to get the bus back to Sanquhar at the end of the walk and stay a second night before getting a bus back about 9am the next day. This also means an easy day and carrying only a few things with you as you can leave the rest of your stuff in your Hotel in Sanqhuar.
Beattock
It's probably better to continue onto Moffat as there's not much in Beattock. However, the Old Stables Inn and Lochhouse Farm bed and breakfast can be found near the trail.
Moffat
Moffat is slightly off the route but advisable to stay the night there as there are more shops and places to eat there and many hotels including the Balmoral, Star, Buccleuch and the Black Bull.
Ettrick Valley and St. Marys Loch
Tibbie Shiels Inn at St. Marys Loch is sadly no longer open but it has a campsite next to it however there is nowhere else to stay on the route. If you are camping or have a sleeping bag with you then the Over Phawthorpe Bothy will be ideal but apart from that you may have to go five miles off the route to stay at the Tushielaw Inn (which does meals and also offers packed lunches).
Traquair and Innerleithen
There is no accommodation in Traquair so you'll have to go the short distance into Innerleithen which also has shops and takeaways, some Hotels include the Traquair Arms, St. Ronans, Tweedside and Corner House.
Galashiels
You might stay the night in Galashiels or continue to Melrose. In Galashiels there is the Monorene, Binniemyre and Watson Lodge guest houses and also the Salmon Inn Hotel.
Melrose
Melrose is a lovely little town just slightly off the trail with a couple of Hotels in the centre, the Station Hotel and Burts Hotel
Lauder
Lauder is a small village but has the Lauderdale and Black Bull Hotels as well as Lornebank Homestay which is a lovely Bed and Breakfast.
Longformacus
The only accommodation I could find online here was the Whinmore Bed and Breakfast but I don't know if it still exists.
Ellemford
Green Hope bed and breakfast can be found a mile or so from the route but when I stayed here the owners offered me a lift back to where I left the route the day before. There is also a kitchen for you to use if you bring food with you from Lauder.
Cockburnspath
There is no accommodation in Cockburnspath so if you intend staying local when you finish then Berwick would be a good choice before getting the train home the next day.
