The first three days on The Ridgeway hadn’t exactly been the most exciting I had ever walked but today would be a welcome change. Gone were the long straight tracks with endless views and hardly a house in sight, today they were replaced with some lovely walking along the River Thames passing through some picturesque villages and hamlets, some woodland walking along Grims Ditch, field walking, a golf course to cross and a few small but steep climbs before reaching the road leading to Watlington and my accommodation for the night.
I set off from Streatley later than I usually would but there was no hurry today, it was a shorter distance than I usually do and the guide book suggested a pretty straightforward walk. It was sunny today, the only time I’ve put sun cream on. The start took me down to the bridge crossing the River Thames into Goring, the Thames looked lovely in the morning sunshine. I soon turned and walked along a road running parallel to the river for a while, also looking at the expensive houses as I passed just wondering what it must be like to live in one and reminding myself to buy an extra lottery ticket that night.
I only got small glimpses of the river as it was hidden from my view by trees, the peace and quiet was soon shattered as a train thundered by and I realised I was beside the railway, this would be a familiar sound this morning. I was soon walking through South Stoke with its distinctive houses but at the end of the village I finally started walking beside the river on grassy paths. A little while later I passed under the railway viaduct with its strange diagonal brick design.
More riverside walking followed, again I sighed at the expensive houses on the other bank before I reached North Stoke. Here I left the river and walked between a golf course on a straight shady path until it reached a busy road, the path ran alongside it for a while in the trees before I carefully crossed the road and started walking along Grim’s Ditch which was anything but grim. It reminded me of my recent walk along Offa's Dyke Path in Wales as I walked along the narrow undulating path shaded by trees which seemed very popular with dog walkers. It was a three mile, mostly straight path but the up and down nature of it made it interesting.
At the end of it, the path turned and headed into Nuffield and past a church that had a notice telling people that the village pub was now closed so why not pop into the church and enjoy a cup of tea or coffee instead. No offence but the thought of a cuppa instead of a refreshing pint was a non starter on a hot day like today so I headed onwards. The next part was a bit unusual, the path taking me through a golf course and crossing a few fairways while looking out for golfers but I emerged without being hit. I soon reached the busy road where the closed down pub is located and carefully crossed the busy road, muttering under my breath about not having a pint.
Once safely across the road, I crossed a couple of large fields, the path went right through the middle of the crops but had recently been harvested. At the end of the second field I stopped to have my lunch, a sign near the closed down pub suggested I had less than five miles to walk. I had plenty time today so there was no hurry to eat my sausage rolls before moving on. Not long after I passed a young family who looked like they were camping on the trail, the mum looking not very happy at the weight on her back as her two kids ran about and played with sticks, carrying nothing.
I would soon come to a little hill, probably the steepest one yet on the trail before the track entered the woods again and a narrow path on the edge of a field. At the end of it I turned sharply and joined the Swans Way which was a wide gravel track for a little while. At the end of a track was a road, you could walk along it or a path at the side of a field but it wasn’t busy so I stayed on the road. At the end of it was a turning left to Watlington but my turn off was not far after this so I crossed the road onto a stony track for a short distance. I was soon at the road and turned left and the short walk into Watlington, which is officially the smallest town in England. For me though all that mattered was my hotel, a shop and a chip shop.
I had really enjoyed today, the good weather helped but the variation of the path today had kept things interesting and was a welcome relief after the last days mainly walking along straight tracks for miles without anything to take your interest, basically plodding away. The weather was nice but the forecast for tomorrow isn’t promising so as I tucked into my fish and chips, I got my waterproof clothing all ready for the promised heavy rain, hopefully it won’t happen but hopefully the trail will be another day like today to take my mind off the weather.
